I found an alternate
dishes of the same fish to be the real star on the main restaurant’s menu: a
beautifully smoked sablefish (shown left)—so moist and tender that juice ran
free as I tapped it with a fork—accented with smooth tomato fondue. This was
the clear winner on our table, which also bore tough seared scallops ($30)
served with lovely sides and a black olive butter I strained to taste. Most
disappointing: During my late-spring visit, when king salmon is at its
awe-inspiring best, our grilled River fillet was on the dry side and whomped by
a dominating mustard sauce. Of the starters we tried, the supremely fresh clams
($12) in a fine, classic dill, white wine, and butter broth were best.
We’d dressed up a bit
for dinner—a rare opportunity when so many restaurants have gone so far in the
other direction—but we noticed that, despite prices solidly in the $30 range
and plush décor, many diners were decked out in Mariners jerseys or similarly
casual clothing. Still, at these prices, one expects service to be polished and
professional, and on that level, Pier 37 impresses: Servers anticipate needs
and take very good care.
On a sunny Saturday
night, we returned to dine upstairs at the café. I’d been a dozen times prior
and couldn’t wait to share what I consider a Northwest rite of passage with my
Michigan-born husband. They’ll bring blankets if we get chilly, I told him we have a tendency to waited within the reedy
bar space for a table outside, sipping a Bloody mother ($8) heat to pair
perfectly with an order of clams in a beer broth we sopped up with warm rolls
($11.95). On the recommendation of our server, we ordered smoked salmon skewers
($12.95; shown right) and were rewarded with supple, buttery salmon (so much
better than the salmon we’d eaten downstairs!), sweet from the brown sugar
brine and cold-smoked until, well, perfect. If you can see past the dated
presentation—the skewers arrive stabbed into a thick, juicy pineapple
slice—you’ll be rewarded: They’re outstanding. For dinner: a plate of sake kasu
($15.95) cooked beautifully, but both too salty (the fish) and too sweet
(that’s a honey soy sauce drowning your jasmine rice); and classic cod fish and
chips, a fine choice ($14.95).
Of course, by the time
we were finishing dinner, we were only half paying attention to our food. The
sun was beginning to fall behind the jagged Olympic peaks, the seagulls were
dancing in the air, and those snug blankets had been offered and accepted.
There was little else in my head as we sat low in our chairs with contented
smiles on our faces except
